• Do I need a permit to build a deck?

Most of the time, yes.  To be sure, check with your local city and county codes administrations.  Depending where you live, you may need either a city, county or both to legally build the structure.  Different offices have regulations for permits pending deck height, size, and if there's a roof structure above.  Most cities require occupational licenses.  In Johnson County KS, any contractor building decks must have both workman's comp and liability insurance and be licensed in Johnson County.                 

FYI - Never pour your footings before checking to see if you need a pier inspection.

• What temperature is too cold to pour footings?

The ambient temperature (outside air temperature) does not determine the degree at which concrete can be mixed to cure properly.  The earth is much warmer than the outside air.  Concrete actually generates its own heat source and the temperature in the ground is what maintains the concrete's warmth.   Generally, if the concrete is covered with wet burlap (to hold in heat) and plastic (to retain moisture) immediately after mixing, concrete will cure faster than it freezes no matter how cold it is.

FYI -  To help insure properly cured concrete in severe cold, use a fast setting concrete or accelerating additive (calcium and other types are available at concrete specialty stores).

• Should support posts be set in or on top of concrete?

Support posts should almost always be set on top of concrete.  Concrete does not protect from moisture.  In fact, it is porous.  It acts as a sponge by sucking up moisture from the ground and then retaining it.  This causes all wood species (even treated) to decay at an accelerated rate.  It causes metal to rust faster than normal.  Also, the less concrete underneath the post, the weaker the strength of the footing.  Lumber set in concrete is also more prone to come in contact with dirt which is a breeding ground for termites and carpenter ants.  An infestation from one of these pests could be the end of your structure.

FYI - Check with your local building codes to find out the required hardware for fastening supports to concrete.  There are several different types depending on the application.  (i.e. - "Stand-off Bases" for cedar decks/ "Hurricane Ties" for all season rooms, etc.)

•  What types of fasteners are acceptable to come in contact with treated lumber?

Almost all treated lumber is now the makeup of ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary).  ACQ replaced CCA in the last few years due to health concerns about the chemicals in CCA.  The new ACQ lumber is much safer for contractors and consumers but much more corrosive to metals.  Any metal fastener coming in contact with ACQ must be ACQ APPROVED and should be indicated on its package.  Typically, nails, screws, bolts, washers, and nuts should be "hot-dipped galvanized" and hangers, brackets, ties, and bases should be "Z-max."  There are some other metals which are acceptable but check package labeling before installing.  Don't assume!  If you're unsure, call your local building codes administration to verify.  A non-ACQ approved fastener may only last up to a couple of months before it jeopardizes the safety and integrity of the structure.

FYI - For more details and information on ACQ and its approved fasteners, visit:

 http://www.sutherlands.com/acq.htm

• Should a new deck be stained/ sealed immediately after construction?

S4S (Smooth Four Sides) cedar and ACQ (treated) lumber should not be stained or sealed for a period of time following construction.  S4S cedar has what is known as a "mill glaze."  This is the cauterization of the wood surface from being ran through high speed rip saws during the milling process.  The "mill glaze," along with cedar's natural oils, take about six to eight weeks of natural weathering to wear off.  However, rough cedar may be stained or sealed just after installation because it has a more open grain.  ACQ lumber has several chemicals pressure injected into it which "treat" the wood - protecting it from decay and insects.  Manufacturers recommend giving the material at least 1 full calendar year to dry out.  By our experience, we suggest eighteen months before applying anything to the surface of this wood.  If not allowed to weather, these factors will prevent the stain/ sealant from penetrating the wood grain deep enough to provide lasting protection.

FYI - Before staining or sealing, power wash to remove all embedded sediment.  Be careful not to get the wand tip too close to the wood as the pressure may damage the surface.  Let the wood dry thoroughly for 24-48 hours.     

Below are three premium stain/ sealants we highly recommend:

http://www.penofin.com

http://www.superdeck.com          http://www.sikens.com