Building Guidelines

Structure:

1.  2”x10” treated joists 16” on center  -  Ensures less bounce and less stress on the decking surface. This will increase the stability and lifespan of your deck.

2.  Double outside 2”x10” rim plate  -  Required by most cities pending tributary loads but should always be done on decks more than 6’ out from house and/ or more than 6’ between support posts.

3.  6”x6” support and railing posts  -  Timbers less than 6”x6” thick, for support or railing posts, will not last as long under the stress of a heavy structure.  Smaller timbers will warp, twist, and crack much easier, faster, and more often than 6x6’s.  Also, 6”x6” posts have a much more stout, pronounced, and solid look which plays a large role in the deck’s overall appearance.

4.  Post blocking  -  All support and railing posts should be blocked in on all sides with lumber of the same dimensions as the deck framework.  Therefore, the post cannot move in any direction.  This procedure reinforces railing posts well beyond the 200 lb. minimum lateral strength required by most cities.  

5.  "Frame in Post" construction  -  The best way to support the frame of a deck structure is custom fit notching all support and railing posts to accept their adjacent rim plates.  The design provides much more horizontal strength than other methods.  Also, it completely alleviates all side to side swaying motion of the deck.  The framework must be notched into outside of the post.  Then the post must be blocked in from all sides.  This procedure makes the post bonded to the deck frame and locked in place.  All support and railing posts are notched out the full width of the rim plate they are fitting.  This gives maximum leverage to the post for lateral strength. 

      The following are some common methods used to make the deck building process faster and easier.  However, these shortcuts also come at a high cost to the customer (an inferior product).

DW Elite Decks never allows for any of these inferior methods to be used!

·   Notching posts outside of the deck framework  -  is quickly becoming a popular method used to speed up deck building.  The posts sit over the decking and frame.  The builder does not have to cut decking around posts and posts are much easier to install from outside the framework.  However, this method leaves nothing holding a post in place except for a handful of nails.  A scary thought when you consider an average size deck weighs 2-3 times as much as an SUV.

·   "Cantilever or Post and Beam" construction  -  is a method used by many companies because it allows the builder erect a structure without having to get exact measurements for each post or block in support posts.  It also saves a few dollars by allowing joists to span greater distances with less tributary loads.  This engineering not only creates a much weaker foundation for side to side motion but also uses up valuable living and storage space under the deck.

·        Bolting or nailing with no 1 ½” bearing  -  is illegal in any city, county, or state adhering to the current Uniform Residential Building Code.  This is an especially unsafe practice which puts the entire weight of a deck structure on hardware that is tested not to withstand that pressure over time.

Hardware:

1.  Post bases  -  Should be used on all cedar, redwood, and exotics coming in contact with concrete.  When wood comes in contact with concrete or dirt, it “wicks” moisture up from the surface which causes rot and decay at an accelerated rate.  The bases stand wood off surfaces that hold moisture.  They are not required on treated woods because they are injected with preservatives.  All posts should be bolted or screwed down to their respective pier to prevent shifting or sliding off the footing.  

2.  Joist hanger nails  -  All hanger nails must be 3” x 10D in a hanger’s angled slots and 1 ½” x 10D in its straight slots.  This is required on both ends of joists.  Some decks have pulled away from their support structures because smaller nails were inadequate.

3.  Ring/ screw shank nails or screws  -  Should always be used on any part of a deck except the hanger nails.  These types of fasteners have grips that dig in the wood fibers to help ensure everything remains straight and strong.

4.  ACQ approved hardware and fasteners  -  The  fairly new ACQ treated lumber is composed of a chemical that requires special coating on all metals contacting its surface.  Only an ACQ approved product should be used with this wood. ACQ will corrode through standard galvanized or zinc metal within the first year of installation.

Craftsmanship:

1.  Quality of materials  - 

·   Architectural Knotty (AK) cedar: for decking and handrails.  AK is rated with no wane, bark and very few tight knots.  It is appearance grade on all sides and edges.  This means a clean look whether you’re on top, below, or at any side of your deck.  Also, it has a much higher span strength than the “Custom Knotty” or “Standard and Better” grades most of the competition uses.

·   No.1 Western Red Cedar: for support and railing posts, wrap, risers, and spindles.  Contains fewer cups, twists, knots, and bark than lower grades.  Rated to support more down pressure.  It also is appearance grade on all four sides.  

·   No.1 ACQ treated lumber: for framework and support.  Contains fewer crowns, bows, knots, bark, and wane than lower grades.  Rated to carry heavier tributary loads and at further spans.  Most other builders use No.2 or lower. 

2.  Deck seams and transitions - Seaming is often necessary when the deck length is greater than the decking is milled.  Blocking is installed 16” on center, and boards are laid perpendicular to the decking direction.  This type of seaming leaves a perfect cut on each side of the transition for a factory milled edge to snap tight in place.  Thus, creating a clean aesthetic look with no gaps. Decking should be seamed with transition boards, not staggered.  Staggering decking boards leaves unsightly gaps and voids due to the varying widths of boards and poor factory cuts.  It also puts many little seams throughout the deck which pull apart and get larger over time.  Also, staggering composite creates buckling from butt joints which leave no expansion gaps.

3.  Straight nail or screw patterns  -  All decking should be completely laid before it is fastened down.  Chalk lines are then snapped from end to end (and intermittently if the depth mandates).  This ensures fasteners stay in a straight line and hit each joist and plate on center.

4.  Decorative post tops  -  Are cut on all posts custom to your   specifications.

5.  Plate and stringer wrap  -  All exposed rim plates and stair stringers are wrapped with 1” thick stock of the chosen or corresponding material.

6.  Riser boards  -  The front of each stair riser is faced with 1“ thick stock (usually the same material as the chosen wrap).  This not only enhances the staircase appearance but is much safer for small children.

7.  Joints  -  Joints are always avoided when possible.  However, they are sometimes necessary because of milling dimensions or extenuating circumstances (i.e. decking that cannot fit in place as a whole because of an existing structure).  Flat surface and corner joints are always 45 degree beveled and feathered together versus being butt spliced.  This creates a much more natural and inconspicuous look that will hold tight over time.

8.  Aluminum spindle installation  -  Aluminum spindles are always bored into the railing framework.  This builds a much stronger spindle cradle and railing section than the typical plastic cap insert used by most deck builders.  A weep hole is drilled through the bottom of every bored hole which allows for moisture drainage to prevent the railing framework from deteriorating.

9.  Carpentry markings  -  White chalk is always used for snapping any lines.  It is the only color which will not become embedded in the wood grain.  All pencil marks are erased.  This may seem trivial, but these marks left unattended will become a permanent part of your deck.  

Craftsmanship Without Compromise

"Never sacrificing quality to save money!"

"Never taking shortcuts to save time!"