Useful Deck Information

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July 30th, 2008

Which Composite Decking is Best?

     Trying to decide on the best brand of composite decking to use?  We get emails and calls every day asking which composite decking is the best to use for a deck in Kansas City.  That really depends on the application and amount of money you want to spend.
 
     There is one brand that we feel is the best value for the Kansas City deck market.  That brand is Evergrain by Tamko. (http://www.evergrain.com).  Keep in mind, that we install several different brands of composite and get absolutely no kickbacks for recommending one company over another.  Here are some reasons Evergrain is a smart choice for your composite deck. 

1.   It’s cost effective:  Probably the lowest cost of all the reputable composite deck brands. 

2.   Quality:  We’ve only processed one claim in eight years.  It wasn’t mold either

3.   Made locally:  Manufactured in Joplin, Missouri, company representatives are always in the Kansas City area.

4.   Service:  Our one claim was a manufacturing defect about five years ago with a particular color.  The Evergrain representative came out and looked at the deck immediately and issued the customer a full refund for materials and labor.

5.   Colors:  “Weathered Wood”, “Redwood”, and “Cedar” colors are very popular and win almost every time when put up against other brands’ selections.  They also match very well with TrapEase screw colors.  The best composite screws on the market (http://www.fastenmaster.com).

6.   Warranty:  25 year warranty.  The best part, it’s one time transferrable so you can actually sell the warranty on the deck with your house. 

     With the popularity of composite decks, there are numerous composite deck companies out there and more popping up every month.  I’d be very leery of using composite decking without a reputable name.  These products are fairly new.  By new, I mean developed and put out into the elements within the last ten to fifteen years.           

      Almost all brands, even the big names, have had their share of defects and product failures.  They’ve had to diagnose, correct and retest their products and some are still having problems.  There is definitely a learning curve to a concept so young.  A product is only as good as its warranty and a warranty is only valid if the company can be located.

     Bottom line, do your research. Check consumer reports (www.consumerreports.com).   Evergrain is a great product, but it’s certainly not the only good brand out there.  Some other brand may offer a more unique color or hidden fastener system that grabs your eye.  Timbertech (www.timbertech.com) has very unique “Earthwood” colors such as Tropical Walnut which is very trendy. 

    Feel free to comment or question through this forum on other composite decking brands or building products. 

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder) 

 

 

Evergrain "Weathered Wood" composite decking

Evergrain "Cedar" composite decking

July 30th, 2008

A Kansas City Deck is a Wise Investment

Posted by dwwebmaster in Investing in a Deck, Purchasing a Deck

     If you’re planning on or have recently built a Kansas City deck, you’ll be pleased to know you’ve made a very wise investment.  Kansas City decks have a higher return on investment than any other home improvement project.

      Remodeling Online did a study in 2003 on the top ROI (return on investment) home improvement projects.  Not only were decks at the very top of the list, they were the only type of project to return over 100% (104.2%) with siding replacement coming in at 98.1%. (http://www2.remodeling.hw.net/industry-news.asp?articleID=23126&sectionID=173)

 Cost data for the Report come from HomeTech Information Systems, a remodeling estimating software company in Bethesda, Md. HomeTech collects current cost information quarterly from thousands of contractors nationwide. The figures include markup and are adjusted to account for pricing variations in different parts of the country.

Resale values are based on the professional judgment of members of the National Association of Realtors (NAR). Surveys containing customized cost-to-construct data for each city, as well as information on median house prices, were sent via e-mail to appraisers, sales agents, and brokers, who responded with dollar figures for each remodeling project that represent the value of the completed project would add to the selling price of the house under current market conditions.”

     Plaza Mortgage Group, through Reece and Nichols website, has also shown similar findings on decks in Kansas City.

     If you need more proof, just ask Demesne.  Demesne is a company whose livelihood is base on home improvement research.  They relay unbiased information from their findings as a resource to their viewers. (http://www.demesne.info/Improve-Your-Home/Improvement-ROI.htm).  In 2007, they reported wood decks are the leader nationwide with a ROI of 85.4% and siding replacement coming in second at 83,2%.   

     The numbers on all home improvements have obviously dropped considerably with the housing market crash and economic decline.  All numbers are sure to rebound with the inevitable economic upswing in the near future.

     Whether you own a deck in Kansas City or any other part of the country, do diligent research, and you’ll find that it’s impossible to go wrong with a quality deck.

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

 

July 30th, 2008

Staining a New Deck

     Once you’ve built or had your new deck built, you’ll definitely want to preserve this significant investment.  Even if your deck is mostly composite, it likely has wood support and maybe even railing posts.  Most people are eager to quickly get a coat of preservative on their newly built deck, screened porch or pergola.  It’s much better to wait a little while to get a sealant’s maximum protection.

     If you have treated wood, most manufacturers recommend waiting at least a year before applying any type of sealant.  CCA, ACQ, and MCQ are saturated with their own pest repellants and wood preservatives.  Any additional chemicals won’t harm, they just won’t penetrate the wood until it dries out.  From experience, I’d recommend waiting 2 full summers and then applying in the fall to get a good application. 

     Cedar also needs some time to weather but not nearly as long.  Smooth sawn cedar has a “mill glaze” or cauterization from being cut by high speed mill saws.  It generally takes six to eight weeks for the glaze to wear off and the grain to open up.  Cedar also has natural oils that bleed out the first couple of months of exposure.  Therefore, rough sawn or smooth sawn cedar should both be given two months exposure before staining or sealing.

     There are many different brands of stains and sealants.  There is also a huge difference in the performance of a quality stain and a poor one.  Listed below are the stains and sealants we feel are the best:

·         Penofin (http://www.penofin.com/)

-Available at any Sutherlands (http://www.sutherlands.com/locator.php)

 or Kansas City Deck Supply (http://www.kcdecksupply.com/)

 

·         Sikkens (http://www.sikkens.com/)

-Available at any Zeke’s Paint and Design Center or many other paint and hardware stores across the country. (http://www.nam.sikkens.com/find-a-dealer.cfm)

 

·         SuperDeck (http://www.superdeck.com/)

-Available at Kwal Paint locations (http://www.kwalpaint.com/locations.html)

     If you want to keep wood looking its natural color, choose a stain that has UV protection along with water repellant.  The sun’s ultraviolet rays are what turn wood gray and drab.  I’d suggest a semi-transparent natural tone oil based product.  It’ll keep the wood’s natural tone and enrich the grain’s colors.  Basically, give the wood a wet look.  Oil based sealants seem to stand up much better to Mother Nature than water based products.

     Before staining, you’ll want to power wash the wood thoroughly.  Be careful no to get the spray nozzle too close to the wood.  Power washers are great for removing sediment deep in the wood but can easily splinter and rip wood apart if the pressure is too great.  Read the manufacturers directions on the back of the product.  Generally, it’s a good idea to wait at least forty-eight hours after power washing for the wood to let it dry out.  Make sure there’s no chance of rain for at least forty-eight hours after you apply the stain.  Only stain when the temperature is above fifty-five to sixty degrees during and after application for at least forty-eight hours (this includes overnight).  This ensures proper curing so the stain doesn’t run or puddle from air moisture.

     Prep and cover the surrounding areas thoroughly since deck stains are very messy.  Make sure you move anything below the deck and cover patios or unmovable objects because the stain will most likely drip down between the deck boards.  You can brush, roll or spray depending on the deck’s location and your experience level.  Keep a brush handy.  You may need to back brush areas that puddle or drip.  If spraying, make sure there is very little or no wind.  Stains can be carried far, even in a small breeze.  Keep some extra rags and paint thinner (for oil based stains) or water (for water based stains).  Wipe any areas which get stain that shouldn’t have.  Apply a minimum of two coats to all flat surfaces (decking, stair treads, and tops of handrails).  Most manufacturers suggest applying again the following year to get a good base coat.  Then you can plan on repeating the process about every two to four years depending on you local climate.

     It may seem like a lot of work, but so is building a new deck.  A properly maintained deck, screened porch, pergola or arbor can last about as long as it’s taken care of.  If you’re thinking of hiring someone to do the work for you, check with your local paint store.  They can probably recommend a good painter or deck stain specialist.  If you used a deck builder, they may also stain or know a reputable company which does.  

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

July 28th, 2008

Pre-Plan Your Deck Lighting

     If you’re building or planning on building a new deck, consider adding some accent lighting.  Low voltage deck lighting is a safe, cost effective way to add character and a warm ambience to a deck.  The soft glow will provide useful illumination for playing cards, reading or just seeing the person’s face you’re having a conversation with.  It also makes the deck’s staircases, handrails, and ledges much safer.  Low voltage lighting does not attract bugs like your high voltage patio door light.  You can keep your deck lights on and not have to go inside reeking like a citronella candle or the lovely aroma of insect repellant.  Like any project, a little planning will go along way to successful design.

     Accent lighting should focus on the perimeter of a deck.  Start with the stairs.  It’s a good rule of thumb to go about every other step for ample light.  You can put one on every step, but it may be overkill on a smaller deck or narrow set of stairs.  The glow at night will be plenty to outline the safe stepping surfaces.  Next, look at your post and railing lights.  If you have an even number of posts and/ or railing sections, then space them out evenly.  If not, don’t worry.  Focus more on getting balanced lighting throughout your deck.  Make sure you don’t leave any dark areas.  The corners up by the house are most commonly forgotten.  Depending on which style of deck light fixture you choose, you may me able to turn the direction of the light to cover an area where one cannot be installed. 

     Consult with your deck builder on layout and fixture style.  They have probably seen many similar situations and can advise on what works best.  Make sure to add up the wattage of all your fixtures plus any you might want later.  Multiply the number by one hundred ten percent.  This will give you the correct transformer size.  Also make sure to check the size of wire being used.  The back of the wiring’s package should say the proper gauge wire depending on number of fixtures and distance being supplied.

     If you think you might ever want deck lighting in the future, it’s best to plan it out with the construction of your deck.  A good deck builder can install the wiring invisibly.  Although somewhat labor intensive, wiring can be ran inside posts, spindles, and railing framework.  Retro fitting wiring after the deck is completed limits on how it can be installed.  It’s nearly impossible to hide every wire when installing lighting on a finished deck.  Although some wires may still be seen, adding accent lighting to an existing deck can provide ambience and a useful feature. 

     If you haven’t already, I strongly urge you to consider adding accent lighting to your deck.  It will help ensure you don’t have “just another deck.”

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

Low voltage lighting

Low voltage lighting

 

July 21st, 2008

Hiring a Deck Contractor

Posted by dwwebmaster in Hiring a Deck Builder, Purchasing a Deck
 

 

 

     Conventional wisdom states that you should “get at least three bids” before hiring a contractor.  It’s a mistake to let price alone drive your selection.  A deck, screened porch, pergola, or other outdoor structure is a valuable part of your home.  It’s an investment which should add significant equity to your house.  It’ll represent you as a person and its quality will be easily noticed.  More importantly, it’ll be a structure dependent on proper construction to provide safety for your family and friends.  Here are some crucial criteria to consider before hiring a deck contractor:

1.   Specializes in deck construction:  Choose a deck builder who specializes in deck building.  There are many handymen and carpenters who can build just a deck.  However, one who specializes in deck construction has more experience working with deck industry’s newest innovations.  Composite decking, aluminum railings, and low voltage lighting are just a few products which require substantial experience to perfect.  Also, building codes change every year.  An experienced deck builder is most likely well schooled on the latest building requirements.

2.   Licensed:  Most local governing agencies require some sort of license for any contractor building decks.  The license requirements vary greatly from county to county and even city to city.  The most important thing is a license ensures the deck is built by someone with some sort of traceable record.  Make sure the deck builder pulls all necessary permits.  This will give you a liaison to manage correct deck construction if you’re unsure between what’s right and wrong.

3.   Insured:  Make sure your deck builder is insured!  All contractors are required to carry liability insurance.  The coverage minimums are usually governed by the same agency that issues the contractor’s license.  They may or may not be required to carry work comp insurance depending on the number of employees.  Be sure to ask for insurance certificates issued with your name and the address of work being done.  This will dismiss you from paying additional premiums added to your homeowner’s insurance for the liability of doing construction. It will also guarantee the deck contractor is indeed insured so they can’t sue you if injured on your property.  If you’re hiring a deck company who is subcontracting, you just need certificates from the general contractor since theirs will cover any subs.

4.   Locatable:  A deck building company should have a place of business other than their own residence.  A place where you can depend to find them in case your have a warranty claim.  A warranty is only good if the contractor can be located.  A place where you can track them in case vendors or sub contractors place a lien on your property for bills unpaid.  Maybe even a place where you can view their craftsmanship up close and personal before buying their product.  Bottom line, a place that represents a successful, stable and secure business partner.

5.   References provided:  A substantial reference list of at least 20 or more contacts including name, phone #’s, location and type of work performed will be accessible to you.  You should take advantage of this source and be sure to ask “When was the work done?  How does it still look?  Would you use them again?  Are you a relative or friend of the contractor?”  The reference list will be composed of fairly recent customers (within the last year) and not family or friends.  Deck builders providing “GREAT WORK ALL OF THE TIME” have no problem supplying many past customers with positive feedback.

These are some key elements to help you decide which deck builder to hire.  However, they are definitely not all.  Just make sure to take your time, do your research and use your natural instincts and common sense. 

“If it’s too good to be true, it probably is.”

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

 

July 17th, 2008

Seaming and Transitioning Deck Boards

     What should you do about seaming a deck where the decking’s not long enough or you need to connect decking running in different directions?   I’m sure everyone’s seen deck boards flip flopped back and forth with staggered seams.  This may look alright when it’s first done; the wood is still green and milled the same size.  But over time, each deck board shrinks up differently than the others, and produces a field of mismatched joints.  You’ll be much happier in the long run with a correctly installed transition board. 

     The key to a clean transition is running your decking long (at least 2-3″ past its destination). Pop a chalk line and use white chalk, it’s the only color guaranteed not to stain your deck. Make sure you account for exactly how wide your transition board(s) is going to be.  If using wood, measure the actual boards you’re going to use because each board may vary somewhat in width.  If using composite, make sure to account for the expansion gaps between the decking and transition boards and any gaps for multiple transition boards.  Set the decking’s depth on your circular saw so you don’t cut into the deck framework.  Cut the lines for your transition. This will ensure each deck board meets perfectly with the transition piece instead of having to cut each one to fit tight.

    Remember, measure three or four times and cut once.  This is not something you want to mess up.  If thought through and done correctly, your seams boards should snap right into place.  Always remember to make sure the understructure for your transition boards meets the same code requirements as the rest of your deck!
 
Hope this helps,
Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)
 
 
Evergrain "Redwood" composite deck with "Clean Seam"

Evergrain "Redwood" composite deck with "Clean Seam"

July 16th, 2008

How to Properly Fasten Composite Decks

     Have you ever heard of a composite deck that has rows of mushrooms popping up from its surface?  Believe me, it’s not a fairy tale.  I’ve seen many of these decks up close and personal.  Why would composite decks have mushrooms you ask?  Easy, the deck builder used the wrong type of fasteners. 

     Composite decks are not like wood decks.  Because of their density, it’s very important to use the correct type of fastener.  When a standard screw is used in composite, it pulls the material up and out of the hole the same as in wood.  However, unlike wood, the composite material does not turn to fine dust and fall away.  Instead, the plastic resin comes up in a string that the screw has formed by cutting through the composite.  This string of material then gets caught under the screw head and forms a mushroom.  The same goes for nailing into a composite deck.  Nails driven into the plastic will force themselves into the composite without shedding material to make room for the nail.  As the composite expands and contracts with temperature change, it will be forced to push the material up where the nail has taken its space.  This forms a different kind, but yet still, an unsightly mushroom.  Some deck builders will simply hammer these mushrooms down.  I guarantee that they will pop back up over time.

     Another very popular method for fastening composites is the hidden fastener system.  There are many different kinds of these systems.  Some composite are tongue and groove deck boards which are fastened through the tongue or groove to the framework.  Most systems use plastic or metal clips which are screwed down in between the deck boards.  These clips have arms or teeth which fit into the pre-grooved deck boards.  Still other systems are installed from the underside of the deck, screwing first through the framework and then up into the deck boards.  Be very careful when using any of these hidden fastening products products.  Your deck framework, (rim plates and joists), must be blocked in between at least 4′ minimum or less.  This will help ensure that as the wet treated (or other) lumber dries out and attempts to warp or twist, it is held close to the same position it was installed.  If not secured properly, the deck boards may pop out of the fastener or even break boards.  Now you’ve got a real problem.  Because these systems are installed in a sequential fashion (deck board, fastener, deck board, etc.), you’ve got to pull every board installed after the one in need of repair to get the problem fixed.  The good hidden fastening systems are not all bad if the framework is built right and the fasteners are secured properly.  They leave a nice clean looking deck surface.  I recommend Timbertech’s Floorizon for a tongue and groove system (http://timbertech.com/Products/DeckingPlanks/Floorizon.aspx

And for a good deck clip to be used with a pre-grooved board (either wood or composite), I’d use Sabre Clip by Cross Timbers http://www.bradcosupply.com/downloads/ResidentialCatalog/I-9.pdf

     However, for overall optimum deck rigidity and holding power, you must use a composite deck screw.  Much like the siding on a house, deck boards are what lock a deck structure together and give it stability.  The deck boards are only as good as the fasteners holding them down.  No fastening system (yet developed) is as strong as 2 face driven, (perpendicular to the board and down in to the framework), screws.  I explained the problem using standard screws already.  Composite screws are different.  The bottom half of the screw has standard (clockwise direction) threads to pull the screw down in to the material.  The top half has counter threads (counter clockwise direction) threads to pull the loose material back down so it doesn’t get caught under the head (as in a standard screw).  The nice thing about composite screws is that they’re colored to blend in with various composite colors.  Depending on the brand of composite being used, some match better than others but most will come very close.  I recommend using Fastenmaster’s TrapEase composite deck screw http://www.fastenmaster.com/product.aspx?currentPage=2&catID=1&prodID=16.  If the deck builder takes the time to make sure the screw patterns are straight, consistent, and the heads are countersunk, you’ll have a clean, crisp looking deck.  One you won’t have to worry about for a very long time! 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

 

 

 

 

 

July 8th, 2008

Comparing Composite Decks vs. Wood Decks

     Obviously, there are some differences between composite decks and wood decks.  Here are a few things to take into consideration when comparing the two.
    
     Price is almost everyone’s key component when deciding which product to use.  Some composite costs more than others.  Do your research.  Visit websites, look at their warranties, go to Consumer Reports (http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm) and see how they’re rated.  Deck builder and contractor forums and discussion groups, which you’re already aware of, (since you’re here at our site reading this post), can be very informative.  What you need consider when calculating the cost difference between composite and wood is how much it will cost to stain and seal your wood deck over its lifespan.  Add this cost into the construction cost when comparing costs.  This will give you a true “apples vs. oranges” price since composite materials only need to be cleaned and not treated.
 

     Yes, I said composite decks need to be cleaned.  Like anything kept outside and exposed to the elements, composites also need care.  Many believe composite decks are maintenance free.  However, they are not.  They are low maintenance when compared to a wood deck.  You don’t have to clean them, but they won’t look like what you paid for if you don’t.  Your car won’t rot away if you don’t wash it, but it sure won’t look like it would if you cleaned it at least once a month or so.  Composites don’t have to be cleaned more than a couple times a year (depending on their surroundings), but they do have to be cleaned.

     As I said earlier, there are many different brands of composites which can vary quite a bit in cost.  There are also different types of wood which vary even more than composites in cost.  Treated decks are low maintenance and by far the most affordable.  They do tend to warp, twist and crack more than some other woods.  There are different types of treated (see “Treated Lumber Comparisons”).  Cedar decks are the most commonly built in the Kansas City area.  People love the way they look.  However, it they are high maintenance and are quickly becoming high cost.  Tropical Hardwood decks are very expensive but offer great warranties and are more durable than even composite decks.

     Bottom line, take your time.  Decks are a substantial investment.  Soak up all the information you possibly can.  And if you need some advice, feel free to post a question or comment to this forum.

 

Hope this helps,

 
Architectural Knotty Cedar w/ Deckorator Black Aluminum Spindles Architectural Knotty Cedar w/ Deckorator “Classic” Black Aluminum Spindles

 

Tibertech Earthwood (Tropical Walnut) w/ Black Radiance Rail Timbertech Earthwood (Tropical Walnut) w/ Black Radiance Rail

 

Mangaris Red Balau Deck and Pergola w/ Stucco Wood Burning Fireplace Mangaris Red Balau Deck and Pergola w/ Stucco Wood Burning Fireplace
July 1st, 2008

MCQ Lumber is Ideal for Decks

 

     Treated lumber used for building decks and other outdoor projects is rapidly changing.  As a deck builder in the Kansas City Metro Area for nearly ten years, I’ve recently seen many changes in treated lumber.  Because it’s my livelihood, I’ve spent some time researching the pros and cons of new treated lumber products available.  Whether you’re building a deck, screened porch, pergola or gazebo, you may find this information useful.

      Many people have heard about CCA treated lumber and the health risks it poses.  The “A” stands for Arsenic, a poison that prevents termites and carpenter ants from digesting material soaked in the chemical.  Although most humans never feast on the lumber, they do come in contact with excess chemicals bleeding out of the grain and breathe sawdust when working with the wood.  Research shows CCA is a carcinogen, especially to those having prolonged exposure with its bi-products.  Several cases of cancer and other health problems in mill workers and contractors have been blamed on CCA.  It is only sensible that a new product was developed to take its place. 

     Therefore, ACQ lumber was created as a safer, healthier alternative for exterior grade treated lumber.  The only problem with ACQ is that while it may be safer for people, it is definitely more detrimental to all metal coming in contact with it.  No longer can zinc, aluminum, brass, elctro-galvanized or many other exterior grade metals be used in conjunction with this new wood.  Many laboratory tests show ACQ corroding through standard galvanized 16D nails in less than six months.  The same nail would last ten or more years in another type of lumber.  As a matter of fact, it will corrode through most patio furniture if not separated from the deck’s surface with some sort of buffer.  National building code requires that all fasteners and hardware used with ACQ be “Double Hot Dipped Galvanized.”  This grade of metal coating is significantly more expensive than zinc or standard galvanized.  Add the increased cost on nails, screws, lag bolts, joist hangers, post bases and grab rail hardware, etc, even on one deck, and it can add up to quite a bit of money.  However, now there’s a treated lumber that combines the benefits of CCA and ACQ but has neither’s downfalls.

     MCQ is far less damaging to metal than even the mildly corrosive CCA.  Also, it has been thoroughly tested to be much safer for humans and animals while still preventing damage from termites, carpenter ants, and the ever determined carpenter bee.  You’ll want to check your product’s lab accreditation and local building code requirements, but almost any grade of exterior metal can be used with MCQ because of its highly technical and unique manufacturing process.   ”The MicroPro™ preservative system used to produce Micronized Copper Quaternary (MCQ) combines the well-established effectiveness of copper and an organic quaternary compound in an inventive approach to the pressure treatment process. By capturing copper in “sub-micron” sized particles and suspending them in solution before applying them to wood by pressure treatment, the performance of MCQ treated lumber is enhanced while providing protection against rot, fungal decay and termite attack.” http://www.greatsouthernwood.com/products/product.aspx?id=17

     MCQ also has a much lighter shade of green than ACQ, making it much more accepting of paints, stains, and sealants.  This means you can construct a naturally attractive deck, screened porch, or pergola without spending a fortune on cedar or composite.  Many Kansas City deck builders are starting to use MCQ lumber.  Because of its growing popularity, it is now being carried in many retail yards and box stores.  Home Depot now carries YellaWood, a specific brand of MCQ.  Other lumber yards are carrying ProWood and MicroWood.  In most cases, the price of MCQ is somewhat cheaper than that of ACQ.  Between the combined cost of fasteners, hardware, and the lumber itself, you’re sure to save enough money to make it worth your while. 

 

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MCQ Lumber (YellaWood)

MCQ Lumber (YellaWood) deck built in Johnson County, Kansas