Useful Deck Information

One of the most important aspects of building a quality deck is proper land grading.  The earth below and around a deck must provide proper water runoff and drainage.  I’ve seen first hand how many Kansas City deck builders fail to do this part of their job.  All one has to do is drive by a newly completed deck and see the piles of dirt mounded up into little hills around each deck pier.  The neglected landscape not only looks bad, but it can be disastrous for the homeowner.

If rainwater fails to divert away from a house’s foundation, the possibility of a flooding basement is probable, if not imminent.  Therefore, a ground swale should always be higher near the footing or foundation of a building and descend gradually away from and toward on open area.  The same reason gutters are installed around the perimeter of a roof.  To get water away from a structure before it comes inside.  It’s especially crucial for this excavation to be performed on low decks before they are built.  Afterwards, such work may not be feasible.  Remember, the deck is not going to divert all the rain by itself.  Much of it will pass to the ground below.

Another area many Kansas City deck builders ignore is around the deck support posts and stairs.  Some deck builders and contractors simply leave dirt from the hole right where they dropped it.  I’m not sure if they just think will dissipate naturally into the ground, believe it’s the homeowner’s responsibility, are just too lazy or don’t even care.  Nonetheless, this practice totally contradicts quality deck building.

Cedar, and even some treated, posts should not come in contact with dirt or masonry.  Doing so will shorten the life of the wood.  Most treated woods are resistant to rot and decay from moisture.  However, abstinence from such exposure will help almost any material last much longer.  Therefore, dirt from piers should be spread out thinly so it does not to come in contact with posts, stairs, or any deck component.

To recap, simply slope all dirt and landscaping away from foundations, footings, piers, and deck components.  Yes, it’s really that simple.  Just a little knowledge and a bit more effort can help some of you Kansas City deck builders become a little better.  Take another step towards higher quality deck building.  After all, that’s really what matters, isn’t it?

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks – Kansas City deck builder)

I’m not sure what the weather’s bringing to all parts of the United States this early winter season.  I do know that Kansas City has been pounded with snowfall after snowfall ever since Christmas Eve. That’s when we received about a foot of the white stuff.  We’ve also had nearly no thaws in the last week and half which has just made the accumulating precipitation pile up even deeper.  Being a Kansas City deck builder, we’re fielding many calls from people concerned about the same thing.  Many are worried that the mounting snow and ice will have detrimental effects to the longevity of their deck.

I recommend that unless they fear the deck is too old or too poorly constructed to handle the weight of the snow, to just leave it alone.  Not all Kansas City deck builders build the same quality of deck.  However, most newly constructed decks can easily hold the “dead load” (non-moving weight) this record breaking December has dropped on us.  I strongly emphasize most in the previous sentence.  If you know your deck had a permit pulled and passed with your local jurisdiction, I’d be almost certain you have nothing to worry about. Deck building codes mandate that a deck can carry far more weight than the Kansas City’s snowfall totals so far.  If you’re unsure whether or not your deck has passed inspection, call your local city or county building codes office and find out.

If your deck is too old to trace its history or you know it hasn’t ever passed a permitted inspection, just stay off, away from, or under it.  Getting out there with your additional body weight and movement will only increase the likelihood of a collapse if it’s going to happen.  Not to mention, snow shovels and scrapers will likely cause damage to the deck if you’re not extremely prudent.  The frozen snow is not going to hurt your deck.  It’s not penetrating the deck’s members at these temperatures.  Even when it does start to thaw, it’s just the same as if your deck was being exposed to rainfall.

The most important thing you can do now is remember this situation.  Come springtime, inspect and maintain your deck.  If you’re unsure or don’t want to mess with this sort of thing, hire a qualified deck builder or contractor.  A reputable, professional deck builder is the best choice to closely examine your deck’s condition and advise needed repairs, maintenance, or possible replacement. 

This year, Kansas City got one inch of snowfall on Christmas Day for the first time since 1969.  What started out as a novelty has turned into something far more burdensome that almost anyone expected.  Many thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful white Christmas we were blessed with this year.  Now I’m sure most would be just fine if we didn’t see any more till next Christmas.

For more deck inspection info, visit the following links:

• Deck Inspections – “A Matter of Life and Death”
• Who Is Qualified To Inspect Your Deck?
• Manual For the Inspection of Residential Wood Decks and Balconies

Have a safe and prosperous 2010!

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks – Kansas City deck builder)

As many Kansas City deck builders know well, his time of year always brings surging inquisition from customers about small cracks appearing in their wood decking components.  Most people are initially very concerned about this natural process often found in wood called “checking.”  That is until we explain what checking is, why it occurs, what can be done to slow it down and how to help conceal its effects, if so desired.

As I said earlier, we field many more calls about checking on our wood decks and components during the fall and winter months.  The reason is very simple.  It’s directly related to the sudden drop in temperature, and in turn, the drastically decreasing humidity levels in the atmoshphere.  It’s the same reason you need to crank up the humidifier in your home as the weather gets cooler.  If not, your skin is also more likely to get cracked, itchy and irritated due to the surrounding air sucking the water right out of your body.

Make no mistake, I’m just a professional deck builder in Kansas City.  That’s about as far from a doctor, biologist or scientist as you can get.  Nonetheless, I’ll give you what I know about checking, why it happens, and how to combat the wood’s natural process.  My experience is with lumber used in deck duilding.  However, much of will overlap just about any application pertaining to wood.

“What is “Checking?”

As wood begins to dry out, it usually develops natural cracks called “checks.”  Checking happens as moisture is released from the wood’s outer rings at a faster rate than its inner rings.   

“A check is a naturally occurring lengthwise separation between wood fibers parallel to the grain.”

- © 1997 The APA – The Engineered Wood Association –

Checking, the separation of continuous wood fibers, is a naturally occurring consequence of the seasoning process of wood. The outer fibers lose moisture to the surrounding atmosphere and attempt to shrink, but the inner portion of the timber member loses moisture at a much slower rate. The different rates of shrinkage can cause the wood to check or split. Rapid drying increases the differential moisture content between the inner and outer fibers and thus increases the propensity for checking in the timber. The checking (and shrinkage) process will stabilize as the moisture content of the member reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environmental conditions.” 

- © 2009 APA – The Engineered Wood Association -

“Why does it occur?”

Checking is more prominent in larger timbers and less porous woods.  Larger timbers and dense woods are prominent in the construction of decks in Kansas City and many regions throughout the United States.  Both of these characteristics delay the rate at which wood’s core moisture evaporates compared to its outer shell.  While larger sizes and denser woods are more prone to check, this natural phenomenon can appear in almost any dimension or species of wood.  

The amount of checking greatly depends on how fast the wood dries out.  Kansas City’s extreme variance in temperatures creates an ideal environment to produce wood checking.  No matter what the climate conditions or surrounding air temperature, checking can and probably will show up at some point. 

Below are some pictures of profound checking which popped up on the pergola in our back showroom.  Keep in mind, this in Western Red Cedar.  Cedar is not only very porous but is also widely recognized as one of the more stable wood species.  Nonetheless, substantial checking still happened.  Not to mention, this display was built and has always been kept indoors with a temperature variance of never more than five degrees Fahrenheit.

Many homeowners and novice deck builders erroneously misinterpret wood checking as the beginning of wood deterioration.  The truth is, checking has no affect on the structure, strength, or durability of wood.  Checking rarely penetrates further than the heart or center of a log, timber, or board. 

As a matter of fact, many top designers, architects, and deck builders request wood containing checks for a more natural look. 

“What can be done to prevent it?”

There is no cure or way or absolute way to prevent checking.  It can be slowed by staining, sealing or painting the wood.  This will help retain moisture in the outer layers longer.  Thus allowing the wood to dry more evenly throughout, and therefore, separate less. 

If checking seems unsightly, you can fill the gapping with an elastomeric caulk or epoxy.  When filling wood which is kept outdoors, it is recommended to follow with paint, lacquer, or poly urethane.  This will help prevent separation of the filler from wood after more exposure to the elements. 

Fore more info on “Wood Checking,” visit the following links:

http://www.apawood.org/glu_level_b.cfm?content=prd_glu_gen_check

http://www.wvu.edu/~exten/infores/pubs/other/wooddr2.pdf

http://northernloghome.com/checking.htm

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks – Kansas City deck builder)

Most deck builders in Kansas City and around the United States would agree on at least something.  Almost all would say that treated decks have few, and only a few, advantages over cedar decks, composite decks, tropical hardwood decks, and PVC decks.  They are inexpensive, durable against wear and tear, and very low maintenance.  Actually, the manufactured chemical injections in the treated wood make these decks virtually maintenance free.  That is, unless the deck builder, homeowner or other contractor decides to stain.

First off, any type of treated deck should not be stained for at least one full year from the end of construction.  MCQ, ACQ, and CCA lumber are all saturated with their own chemicals for protection against rot and insects.  Any sealant applied within the first year of exposure will simply run off or not penetrate deep enough into the wood’s grain to do any good.

Once time for staining that treated deck does arrive, the deck builder, painter, homeowner or whoever will need to power wash the deck first.  Then the deck should be allowed to dry out for a couple of days.  When choosing a stain, many Kansas City deck builders and contractors use a brand called Super Deck which is sold at your local Kwal paint store.  It’s specially formulated to interact with treated lumber’s makeup of southern yellow pine and the preservatives which are injected into the wood.

Apply at least two coats to all surfaces and three to all flat surfaces such as decking, stair treads, handrail caps and bench seats.  Most stain manufacturers recommend following up with another application a year later to give a solid base coat.  Then applications would follow every three to four years or as needed depending on climate and deck usage. 

However, remember that a treated deck is pretty much maintenance free as is.  It does not need staining or sealing to keep it from deteriorating.  But once you apply that first coat of new stain, you’ve now turned that maintenance free treated deck into one that’ll have to be cared for continually in order to keep it looking consistent and the color of stain you put on.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks – Kansas City deck builder)

Wow has it been a mild summer in Kansas City!  They say maybe even the coldest on record.  Being a Kansas City deck builder, we’ve been more than grateful to Mother Nature for the below average temperatures.  It’s somewhat helped combat the poor economy.  However, I’m a little worried about what this winter will be like.  The Farmer’s Almanac calls for above average precipitation and below average temps.  It sure seams like that would be right in line with the weather pattern we’re having right now.

Every Kansas City deck builder, and person throughout the United States, knows darn well that no meteorologist, computer or book can accurately forecast the weather.  Kansas City deck builders have to rely on forecast accuracy for their livelihood prosperity, and believe me, it’s seldom right.  Nevertheless, one thing that’s certain is the changing of seasons.  The daytime highs and nighttime lows are rapidly dropping.  It’s the nighttime lows you need to be concerned with if you’re still planning on sealing that deck in 2009.

The cooler daytime temperatures actually help the deck builder or homeowner seal a deck.  The sealant has more time to penetrate and soak into the wood before drying.  This makes for a longer lasting application.  The nighttime temps are nearing the point of being detrimental to the stain curing process.  When the temperature at night gets below fifty-five degrees, the stain no longer cures.  This can lead to runs and spotty discoloration from rain and dew.  With the nighttime lows still averaging above this threshold, now is the ideal time to stain and seal your deck.

Many Kansas City deck builders offer power washing, staining and sealing services.  Many painters also do this type of work.  With the recession in full swing, so do many homeowners.  Whether you hire out or do it yourself, be sure to get that deck sealed soon because you never really know how early a Kansas City winter will rear its ugly head.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

Not long ago composite decks were a revolutionary new product just popping into the deck industry.  Trex was the brand name that pioneered the low maintenance (not maintenance free) decking.  It quickly became a household name and was actually referred to composite decking much like Zerox is to copiers.

As almost any new invention does, the first lines of composite decking products had their share of flaws.  They absorbed stains easily, got very hot under direct sunlight, became very malleable when heated, and harbored mold and mildew more easily than wood or concrete.  Composite decks were also very limited in their design and construction due to a slim variety of board sizes and dimensions.  However, it didn’t take long for the major players in composite decking to adapt and overcome these issues.

Brands such as Evergrain, Timbertech, and Trex soon corrected composite’s shortcomings.  They also developed many more accessories, colors, textures, and therefore, possibilities.  This led the way to composite now being the most popular deck material in America.  Today, composite is the number one material decks are built from.  As a Kansas City deck builder, nearly ninety percent of the decks we build are composite.

There are still a large number of people who still prefer the natural look and feel of real wood.  Combined with price, that’s why treated, cedar, Radiance Wood, and tropical hardwoods still have a solid place in the deck industry.  Cellular PVC sales on brands such as Azek and Gossen are quickly on the rise and may soon replace composite decking as the industry leader.  But for now, composite still owns the lion’s share of deck sales.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

May is actually National Deck Safety Month.  However, I’m running way behind with the major influx we had in business last month.  With the slowed economy, I guess I forgot my running shoes when business took off like gang busters about a month ago.  Therefore, my blog posts, like many other parts of my business and personal life, are feeling the ripple effect of trying to catch back up to speed with normal peak deck season.

The point of this report is to remind everyone, homeowners and deck builders alike, to remember at least an annual inspection of their deck.  Deck contractors:  you can offer this free service as an avenue to drum some extra business.  Preferably, I always recommend at least semi-annual examinations.  One at the end of winter or start of spring and one at the end of summer or early fall.  This ensures the deck is checked for harsh winter climate damage as well as wear and tear from spring and summer use.

You should especially (but not exclusively) check for loose balusters, splintering decking, cracked stair stringers, grab rail attachments, deck to house connection (make sure there’s no increasing gaps), footing settling and post decay.  Also check all metal fasteners for rust and corrosion.

If you’re unsure of what to look for or how to repair anything, please call a reputable, licensed deck contractor for their expertise and advise.  If your deck is in pretty bad shape, most jurisdictions will require a building permit if the renovation makes up for fifty percent or more of that particular part of the deck. 

This is a commonly misunderstood statute.  It does not mean fifty percent or more of the entire deck.  It means fifty percent or more of that part of the deck.

For example:  fifty percent or more of the decking, fifty percent or more of the railings, fifty percent or more of the posts, etc.  If any of these areas require fifty percent or more replacement, then a renovation permit is usually required for the job.  However, almost all cities and counties vary somewhat on when a renovation permit is required.  It is usually left up each individual plans examiner.  Also, anytime you start messing with major structural parts like joists, support posts, piers, or stairs, the city may want permit regardless of the amount being replaced.  They want to ensure it’s safely rebuilt.  So make a detailed a scope of work to be performed and submit it to you local building codes department for approval.  Otherwise, your deck, screened porch or pergola project may quickly jump in cost because of violation fines which code enforcement officers don’t mind issuing.

I’ve attached some helpful checklists, forms and links that will guide both homeowners and deck builders through ensuring a deck is safely built, maintained and inspected.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

Click here to downloadNADRA’s Deck Evaluation Form!

Click here  to download the Consumer Checklist!

Click here to check out the DSM Postcard!

Related Articles, News and Info:

Deck Collapse Article

Deck Inspections – A Matter of Life and Death 

Who Is Qualified To Inspect Your Deck?

“Manual For the Inspection of Residential Wood Decks and Balconies” 

     No matter what kind of deck you own or are planning to own, none are maintenance free.  Even composite, PVC and exotic hardwoods need period cleanings to keep them looking nice.  However, be very careful what you use to clean your deck. 

     Never use bathroom or kitchen cleaners.  Many contain ammonium which is very corrosive to the metal used in nails, screws, bolts, and joist hangers.  You can jeopardize the structure’s strength, and in turn, the safety of your family by using chemicals containing ammonium and other disinfectants commonly used in kitchen and bath cleaners.

     Never use cleaning products or washes containing oxalic acid.  Oxalic acid is known to destroy the mold and mildew inhibitors necessary in composite decking.  Wood lumber also contains natural inhibitors.  Therefore I’d suggest avoiding using any cleaner containing oxalic acid.  Many composite manufacturers will not honor the composite’s warranty if it’s discovered that the deck has been cleaned with a product containing oxalic acid.  Just to be on the safe side, I’d recommend not using any solution containing any kind of acid, phosphate, or solvent.  It may cost you dearly if you have mold, mildew or staining that’s not covered because you used a cleaner containing one of these chemicals.

     Never use bleach or chloride products.  They may fade the color of composite decking, natural wood and stained decks.  They can also break down the plastic resins in composite decking.  Chloride is also known to weaken the ultraviolet protection in stains, composite and PVC decking.

     Never use any chemical containing abrasives.  Abrasives will remove the sheen on stained decks, composite decks, and PVC decks.  On composite and PVC decks, they will also damage the surface’s traction.  Every composite and PVC decking product is required to meet certain requirements for “slippery surfaces when wet.”  By cleaning these surfaces with an abrasive, you can deteriorate the decking so it no longer meets these requirements.

     OK, what you shouldn’t use can be confusing and hard to remember.  What you should use is much simpler.  If it’s a composite deck, PVC or Azek deck, tropical hardwood or other exotic deck, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning procedures and products.  That way you won’t chance voiding your warranty.  If it’s a cedar or treated deck, I’d recommend Olympic Deck Cleaner sold at Lowe’s stores.  http://www.olympic.com/stain_products/exterior_stains/cleaners/index.htm

It’s environmentally safe for all plants and animals and is biodegradable.  It also contains no acids, phosphates, or solvents.  It may fade your deck’s color slightly so be sure to test it in a small inconspicuous area or on a piece of scrap wood first.

     Just like your car, boat, or house, it’s a good idea regularly clean your deck to maintain its optimum appearance.  Just be careful what you use to clean it.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

Olympic deck cleaner for cedar and treated decks

Related News, Articles, and Info:

 Deck Inspections – A Matter of Life and Death

Who Is Qualified To Inspect Your Deck?

“Manual For the Inspection of Residential Wood Decks and Balconies”

“Summer Issue 2006 – Wood Design Focus – Deck Design and Construction”
providing supplemental information to the “Manual for the Inspection of Residential Wood Decks and Balconies” 

     Early spring is usually the best time to do a complete diagnostics check of your deck.  In many areas, winter can be especially hard and do the most damage to a deck’s integrity.  Spring is also when activity on the deck begins to liven up. 

     Because of the Midwestern harsh and extreme seasonal changes, I know first hand that decks in Kansas City need regular checkups.  This spring I went out to check out the status of my deck.  I definitely needed to.  My deck is about 15 feet above grade.  It is all Southern Pine which requires more maintenance that man made composites and exotic hardwoods.  My son was about 18 months old.  As most boys that age, he was starting to explore wherever he could.  He would climb on anything low enough to leverage himself up on.  He would push, pull and test the strength of everything he could wrap his curious little hands around.  I noticed a couple of conditions which made my deck very unsafe. 

     One was the guardrail.  It was built to code at 36 ½” above decking surface.  When built, my wife and I wanted it at minimum height so we could take full advantage of the sitting view behind our home.  Now that scenic country view had taken a back seat to our child’s safety.  He could easily scale any of the patio chairs and go over the railing.  Therefore, I fabricated a new section of guardrail onto the existing making it seven and a half inches higher than before.   

     I also noticed many of the wooden two by two spindles were coming loose, cracked or both.  I replaced any that looked the slightest bit questionable.  A very small price to pay considering each one protects the life of our young son.  It may sound melodramatic, but it’s absolutely the truth.  If your deck or screened porch is of considerable height from the ground, pay close attention to each and every baluster (spindle).  It only takes one unsecure spindle to create enough of an opening for a small child to fall through. 

* Many deck builders install wood or composite balusters with nails only.  THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE ! 

     The 2003 IRC (International Residential Code) applied to all decks and screened porches states that “railings and guardrails may not rely on nail withdraw to meet the two hundred pound minimum lateral force requirement.”  This means that your railings must be able to withstand two hundred pounds of force pushing against them.  Toe nails (or angled nails) into the railing’s framework can produce necessary load requirements because they are not relying on straight nail withdraw.  By toe nailing, the pressure put on the nail is against the shank.  Each sixteen penny nail has at least one hundred pounds of shear strength.  However, a nailed baluster is not toe nailed.  It is driven straight (horizontally) to the framework.  This means all outward pressure is put solely on that nail’s withdraw resistance.  Therefore, screws must be used for fastening balusters to guardrails and stair rails because the have deep threads which provide much greater holding power than nails.  Ring shank and screw shank nails are not an acceptable substitute for screws in this application!  

     Aluminum, glass, iron and other railing spindles may use a bored cradle or installed between pieces of framework which is also acceptable.  Some deck builders will install balusters with a pneumatic nail gun and then go back and add screws to each one.  This is acceptable as long as there’s at least one screw in the top and one in the bottom and that screw has at least one inch of embedment.  I digress.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

     Most Kansas City deck builders either install flashing or a water channel to protect a home’s exterior finish and inner structure.  Without either method installed, water will get trapped between the deck’s back ledger board and the house.  The moisture between the two surfaces is unable to escape and will quickly deteriorate the house’s siding, insulation, inner framework and possibly the deck ledger board as well.  Therefore, it is most often mandated and always highly recommended that either technique is used.

     Flashing is the best way to prevent water damage to your home and deck.  The house’s siding is cut to allow galvanized roll, stick or step flashing to slide under the exterior shell and out and over the deck ledger board.  When water comes down the side of the house, the flashing sheds the water out over the deck plate so it cannot get between the deck ledger and house siding.  Some deck builders will install two layers of flashing.  The first goes under the deck boards and another over the decking about two to four inches out from the house.  The second layer over the decking is to ensure that water doesn’t pass through the screw holes in the lower layer of flashing; created by fastening the decking down to the back ledger board.

    Sometimes deck builders don’t have the option of installing flashing.  Many new home builders don’t want another deck contractor cutting into the integrity of their nearly or newly finished house.  Some exterior finishes aren’t very conducive to the process (i.e. – stucco, brick, stone).  Some siding warranties will be voided if cut by anyone other than the manufacturer (i.e. vinyl, steel).  If you’re building a deck right below a row of window or doors, it’s not always a good idea to pull the trim to try and fit in flashing.  It may not even fit.  In cases where flashing is not the best option, a water channel should be installed to allow water to pass between the house and deck ledger board. 

     The air gap between the house and deck will let water escape and evaporate so water doesn’t sit and jeopardize the house or deck structures.  Most water channels are simply built with 1”x4” treated lumber cut into pieces the same width as the rim plate and installed every sixteen inches or whatever spacing the ledger bolts are going to be placed.  The lag bolts, Ledger Loks ( see “Ledger Loks are a Great Alternative to Lag Bolts! – http://dwdecks.com/blog/?p=278) or masonry anchors should be installed through the spacers to achieve proper shear strength.  Placing them in the water channel (between the spacers) not only reduces the fastener’s shear strength capacity but also creates an opening for water to invade the house structure. 

     There are also some different types of pre- manufactured spacers.  Deck 2 Wall Spacer (http://www.deck2wallspacer.com/) was one of the first patented products available to Johnson County, KS deck builders and other deck contractor in the Kansas City area.  Even newer products feature gasket types which claim to seal out any water from getting between the spacer and deck plate or house exterior.  I have yet to try these out so I can’t vogue for their guarantees.

     Whether your local building code requires it or not and no matter what type of flashing or spacer you decide to use, make sure you use one of these techniques. It’s critical that the deck builder take the time to install either method carefully and correctly.  Water damage to your house can be extremely expensive, especially since the homeowner most likely won’t be able to see the affected area until it’s far too late.  Rot and, in turn, weakening of this area can also be very dangerous since the deck relies on the house’s structure for support.  It will increase the chances of a deck collapsing.

Hope this helps,

Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks - Kansas City deck builder)

Flashing should be installed behind the siding, not in front of it.

Result of improperly installed flashing.